My "other" set of wheels (the "cracked" 304's - all of them) seemed to have thicker paint and that may have contributed to me not seeing the cracks I wish I had used clear over the gold - I will have to paint mine again in a year or two - they're getting permanently discolored by brake dust, etc. When you paint them, it helps a bunch to heat the centers a bit before painting (on an old industrial hot plate in my case, just hot to the touch) to dry the paint faster and prevent runs. It also is easy to spread and doesn't "skin," (it cures gradually all the way through) so you have plenty of time to work with it after application. I used Dow 832 sealant - tough and good adhesion to almost anything. Here is a pic of the finished product, I wish I had a before picture I don't think they had been cleaned in years.Sealing - the bead after ass'y does three things: a) makes it MUCH easier to assemble without fighting a gooey mess, b) allows the ass'y to be torqued w/o anything in between to compress later and loosen the bolts, and c) the after-assembly seal applied to the joints is wider, and therefore has more compliance and is less likely to leak when the parts flex. Ask them where you buy your bolts what the recommended torque is for the bolts. I painted the bolt heads to match and keep them from degrading. Not too bad to do while they are unassembled. Finally used the Powerball and polish to finish shining them up. Then I used the buffer to polish them up. For the outer rims I had to use some sandpaper to get some of the oxidation cleaned up using progressively finer sandpaper until it was at 1000 grit. The clear dulled the very bright gold just the right amount and eased maintenance. I used the reflective gold by Rustoleum - 2 coats on each center section and then followed that with two coats of clear Rustoleum. Your procedures are good up to the point where you are sealing them and Dave recommended NO sealant on the mating surfaces only a bead after assembly to avoid them pulling up unevenly. I bead blasted mine to remove the oxidation and old paint. Same wheels, Dave W provided me with guidance. Here is a pic of the finished product, I wish I had a before picture I don't think they had been cleaned in years. Non-Destructive Testing service/quoted $20.00 per center, How about one clear thread with experienced comments ? Use and seal with Dow Corning Silicone Adhesives/Sealant 832 ( on the flat bolting surface AND on the crease AFTER the wheel is assembled OR just on the crease aftre assembled - Hardware: the wheels have these what appears special Allen headed bolts that are tapered and are wider at the bottom (a source ?). Afterwards, re assemble with new Allens and metal locking nut (w/ Loc-Tite ?). Then to crack testing at a NDT* Service- When done do I "buzz bomb" them with " _" (Home Depot, Eastwood stuff?) - spray gun with " _" (epoxy, PPG something ?) and then do you clear coat for ease of maintenance, with " _" (paint, etc.) I have searched the forum and again the consensus seems to be NO POWER COATING. I have four (4) full sets of Jongbloed #215 wheels which this past weekend I removed the centers (all 288 nut, bolts and washers ) from the rims – This weekend I will be stripping off paint, using " _" and then getting them "blasted" by " _" (please insert soda, or plastic, walnuts or other media ). I need the final "truth" when it comes to the process and material(s) to be used to refurbish and re-coat (paint?) racing wheels.
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